![]() A Mitsu mechanic told me once that if you turn the BISS all the way in, the car should stall. So before dumping more $$ into another piggyback, try playing the the BISS screw to see if that helps. The car drove perfectly all summer/fall and got consistent 30+ mph on the highway. I did have to adjust the high one more click as WOT EGTs got too be a little higher than what I was comfortable with (900C). Took the car out for a drive and the throttle response was much crisper. Before it was maxed, now it sits around 115-125 depending on a few things. Hooked up the logger and the ECU low fuel trim had already adjusted. Peaked in the cab at the ARM 1 gauges (1 for each bank) and noticed both were cycling as they should. With the car completely warmed up and idling, I backed the screw out a couple turns. One click leaner was too much and there's no in-between.įor a time, I just put up with it thinking the ECU would adjust, but it never happened. This was from the car running a little too rich. WOT was great, but there was still the slightly loppy idel. Took a few days to work out some wiring and MAF backwash issues, but I had the car tuned in a matter of minutes. I have the original version of the ARC installed on my car, paid $600 shipped for it used, and don't have any of the idle or part throttle issues people seem to complain about. When you back the screw out, it slightly leans the mixture and tightening richens. It's commonly known function is to raise and lower your idel, however what people don't understand is if you don't ground the wire by the battery, all you're doing is adjusting your A/F mixture. Are you guys who are arguing about "fine tuning" with your piggy back aware that you have a mechanical A/F adjuster already installed on your car from the factory on the throttle body? It's misunderstoodly called the Basic Idle Set Screw (BISS).
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